MSTS GE 44 ton Switcher Reskinning Kit


This kit is simple to re-paint and will give you a
handy locomotive for those switching activities around
the yard.

The eng file has the latest "front coupler" settings and
REALISTIC brakes. It will NOT stop on a dime!!!!!  ;-)

23/05/04
Dick Cowen

richardjimc@aol.com

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Retextured by Brian Bere-Streeter _ 1/7/05

Repainted by Brian Bere-Streeter to represent a BHP Newcastle Steelworks Centre Cab locomotive No51.

The locomotive is painted in the original BHP dark blue livery, rather than the later period yellow livery, so that it can 
be used to work realistic loads to and from the Morandoo exchange sidings and the BHP steelworks, on the MSTS 'Coals to 
Newcastle' route, by Peter Newell.


SPECIAL NOTE: This model is NOT a true representation of the BHP Centre Cab switching locomotive. There are no direct 
equivalent locomotives currently available in the MSTS file libraries. This GE-44ton used as a base model, is the closest 
that I could find that is suitable for a reasonable attempt at modelling a BHP Centre Cab. Because the new model is a 
repaint of an existing 3D model, the model included here has the following basic detail errors that were not fitted to BHP 
Centre Cab locomotives.                                 

BHP Centre Cab’s did not have:-

-	the end pilots were completely different – they had full depth buffer beams, and large diameter buffer heads.
-	There are a few other minor variations from NSWGR practise.

If you are prepared to accept these differences, then you will be able to run the locomotive in MSTS with a REASONABLE 
attempt at authentic appearance.

If you are not prepared to accept these differences, then do not download and install the model. You could wait until such 
time as someone creates an accurate model of a BHP Centre Cab (maybe never), or alternatively enjoy using this 
representational model while MSTS still has some life left in it!!!

Please note that you will need to create a "light engine" consist for this engine.

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Physics Files Modified by Don Martin _ 23/7/05

eng file modified by Don Martin to include most recent front coupler settings (based on the work of Joe Morris, available in 
the 3dTrains forums), FCalc2 friction figures, including adjustment for friction bearings, adjusting brake pressures to NSW 
standards, and various other small changes. The starting state also no longer has engine brakes applied, but does have the 
train brake in the "applied" position, in accord with convention. The headlight settings have also been reset so the dim 
setting (press H once) illuminates the area to both the front and rear of the loco. The full beam setting (press H again) 
puts a bright beam to the front only.

Note about connecting to a vehicle using the engine's front coupler. The front coupler modifications work well if the 
vehicle that you are connecting to has also had its coupling statements modified. If it has not, there are various problems. 
Unless you connect your front coupler to an unmodified vehicle at EXACTLY 2 mph (better on the low side of the 2, ie close 
to 1, than to the high side) MSTS may crash if you are using version 1.1 (dated December 2001). If you are using the original 
version of MSTS (dated May, 2001) you will be able to connect at a wider range of speeds but the vehicles will not have the 
air pumped through to their brakes - if there are only a few light vehicles you will still be able to shunt them against 
their brakes, but this is not the case with a heavy consist.

Note about uncoupling using the front coupler. Regardless of whether your vehicles have been modified or not, uncoupling 
from the front coupler requires extreme care. The aim is to pull away very very slowly. Otherwise, the vehicles will 
recouple instantly. Before using the F9 uncoupling tool, place the engine brake on, up to about 20% strength. Use F9, then 
place the engine, with reverser in reverse of course, into notch 1 (4% power) and gradually reduce the engine brake. When 
the brake reaches 12% or so, the engine will probably slowly ease away (it may need a little less in some situations) let it 
move well clear of the other vehicle before increasing the speed. Although this sounds cumbersome, it is easy to soon get the 
knack.

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